Livraison gratuite sur les commandes de plus de 59 $
The Vardenyats Pass road climbing through the Armenian highlands

Riding Armenia and the Selim Pass on the M10

Armenia is a small country with a lot of altitude in it, and the single road that sums it up is the Vardenyats Pass — known to almost everyone as the Selim Pass — where the M10 climbs to 2,410 m (7,910 ft) between Martuni on Lake Sevan and Yeghegnadzor in Vayots Dzor. At the top sits a stone caravanserai built in 1332 that has been sheltering travellers on this crossing for seven centuries. It is a short pass by Alpine standards and an unusually memorable one, and it is only open for part of the year.

The Vardenyats Pass road climbing through the Armenian highlands
The Vardenyats road working its way up the treeless highland. Photo: Art Anderson, CC BY-SA 3.0.

The pass, in plain terms

The Vardenyats Pass sits in the eastern section of the Vardenis mountain range, on the highway linking Martuni and Yeghegnadzor, and the summit is at 2,410 m (7,910 ft). The road number is M10. From the north you climb off the Lake Sevan basin — the lake itself sits at 1,900 m (6,234 ft), so you are starting high — and the gain to the col is modest in metres but relentless in switchbacks across bare, treeless upland. From the south the approach out of Vayots Dzor is longer and greener at the bottom, with the serpentine section stacked into the last few kilometres.

There is nothing technically difficult about it. The surface has been rebuilt in recent years and is generally sound, the corners are open, and the traffic is thin. What defines the pass is exposure: no trees, no barriers in most places, no shelter, and weather that changes without discussion. Riders report cold and rain arriving in minutes at the summit even in high summer. Pack for it.

Route at a glance

Road M10, Martuni to Yeghegnadzor
Summit Vardenyats Pass, also called Selim Pass, 2,410 m (7,910 ft)
At the top Orbelian's Caravanserai, built 1332, the best preserved in Armenia
North end Lake Sevan, 1,900 m (6,234 ft), the largest body of water in the Caucasus
Typical open season Roughly June to September for reliable conditions; closures reported in winter snowfall, as of August 2026
Winter status Regularly closed or restricted after snow; the road service publishes daily updates
Land borders Georgia and Iran open; Turkey and Azerbaijan closed

Open the Martuni to Yeghegnadzor crossing in Google Maps and send it to your navigation, because the summit has patchy coverage and the junctions at both ends are lightly signed.

The caravanserai at the top

Orbelian's Caravanserai stands on the southern side of the pass at 2,410 m (7,910 ft), built in 1332 by prince Chesar Orbelian to shelter travellers and their animals crossing into or out of the mountainous Vayots Dzor region. It is the best preserved caravanserai in Armenia. The building is low, dark and startlingly intact: a vestibule with a gabled stone roof on three arches, a long hall lit only by oculi, and carved decoration around the entrance including a winged animal and a bull above the lintel. Three inscriptions survive in the vestibule, in Persian, Arabic and Armenian, of which the Armenian one on the eastern interior wall is still legible.

It is worth understanding what it means for the ride. This crossing was a working trade route in the fourteenth century, which tells you both that the pass is a natural line through the mountains and that it was hard enough to need a stone shelter at the summit. Six hundred years later the wind at the top has not improved.

The 14th century Orbelian caravanserai at the top of the Selim Pass in Armenia
Orbelian's Caravanserai, 1332, on the southern side of the col. Photo: Liveon001 © Travis K. Witt, CC BY-SA 3.0.

Building a route around it

The pass is a two-hour ride, not a trip. What makes it worth flying to Yerevan for is what sits on either end.

North: Lake Sevan. Sevan is the largest body of water in Armenia and the wider Caucasus, one of the largest freshwater alpine lakes in Eurasia, sitting at 1,900 m (6,234 ft) and covering 1,242 km² (480 sq mi). It is fed by 28 rivers and streams, and only about a tenth of that water drains out through the Hrazdan — the rest evaporates. Soviet-era irrigation and hydroelectric extraction dropped the level by roughly 20 m (66 ft) and cut the volume by more than 40 per cent, which is why the monastery of Sevanavank now sits on a peninsula rather than the island it was built on. The road around the lake is fast, open and windy, and the northern shore is quieter than the resort-heavy western side.

South: Vayots Dzor and Syunik. Drop off the pass and you are in the canyon country that leads towards Noravank, then south along the M2 towards Goris and Tatev. Tatev Monastery is a 9th-century complex on a basalt plateau above the Vorotan gorge, and the Wings of Tatev cableway from Halidzor, opened in October 2010, holds the Guinness record as the world's longest non-stop double-track cable car. The roads through Syunik are the best sustained riding in the country and the reason to give Armenia a week rather than a weekend.

Lake Sevan in the Armenian highlands at about 1,900 m
Lake Sevan at the northern end of the crossing. Photo: Suzanarmenia, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Season, closures and weather

The pass is seasonal and you should treat it that way. Winter snowfall closes it or restricts it to certain vehicle types, and Armenia's road service publishes daily road condition bulletins that name the Vardenyats Pass specifically when it shuts or when trailers are barred. The practical window for touring is roughly June to September, with the shoulders of May and October depending entirely on the year. Check the official road conditions bulletin the morning you plan to cross rather than assuming, as of August 2026.

The weather at 2,410 m is the other half of the problem. Riders consistently describe unpredictable conditions on the col: cold, wind and rain that arrive fast even in summer, with clear skies twenty minutes later. There is no fuel, no shelter and effectively no services between the two valley towns. Carry a layer you can put on without unpacking the bike.

Paperwork, fuel and riding conditions

Getting in. Armenia is a landlocked country whose usable land borders are with Georgia and Iran; the frontiers with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed. Almost every rider arrives overland from Georgia, on a flight into Yerevan followed by a rental, or by shipping a bike into the region. Many nationalities enter visa-free, but confirm your own status with Armenian immigration before booking, and check whether your vehicle insurance is valid — European green card cover does not automatically extend here, and local third-party insurance is normally bought at the border or online. Bring registration, licence and an International Driving Permit.

Fuel. Fuel is straightforward in the towns and absent between them. Yeghegnadzor and Martuni both have stations; the pass itself has nothing on either side of the climb, and the same is true of the long empty stretches in Syunik. Many Armenian stations sell compressed natural gas alongside petrol because so much of the local fleet runs on it, so check the pump rather than assuming. Filling before any mountain section and keeping 150 km (93 miles) of range in hand covers the country comfortably.

On the road. Armenian roads have improved substantially but the standard is uneven, and the failure mode is abrupt: good tarmac giving way to a broken section without warning, unmarked works, and potholes on the inside of blind corners. Livestock on the road is normal in the highlands. Traffic police are present on the main routes and speed cameras are in use around Yerevan. Riding after dark on rural roads is best avoided, mostly because of unlit vehicles and animals rather than anything sinister.

Gear notes for the Armenian highlands

Two things matter more here than the length of the route suggests. The first is offline mapping. Coverage is patchy across the passes and the road numbering on the ground does not always match what your phone shows, so download the whole country before you leave the city — our guide to offline navigation abroad covers doing it properly rather than hoping. The second is tyre pressure discipline. You are moving between 1,900 m lake shore, a 2,410 m col and warm valley floors in a single day, and cold-morning pressures read very differently by afternoon; our notes on why tyre pressure drops in cold weather explain the mechanism, and a TPMS sensor saves you standing at a garage airline doing arithmetic. Guesthouses in the villages are excellent and their sockets are inconsistent, so the MT100 bi-directional charger earns its space. If Armenia is one leg of a Caucasus loop, the Georgian Military Highway is the obvious northern companion.

FAQ

How high is the Selim Pass?

The summit of the Vardenyats Pass, also called the Selim Pass, is 2,410 m (7,910 ft). Orbelian's Caravanserai on the southern side of the col sits at the same elevation.

Is the Vardenyats Pass open in winter?

Not reliably. Snowfall closes it or restricts it to certain vehicles, and Armenia's road service names it in daily condition bulletins when that happens. Plan on roughly June to September and check the official bulletin on the morning you intend to cross.

What is the caravanserai at the top of the pass?

Orbelian's Caravanserai, built in 1332 by prince Chesar Orbelian to shelter travellers and pack animals crossing into Vayots Dzor. It is the best preserved caravanserai in Armenia and still carries inscriptions in Armenian, Persian and Arabic.

How do you get a motorcycle into Armenia?

Overland from Georgia or Iran, since the Turkish and Azerbaijani borders are closed, or by renting in Yerevan. Confirm your visa status with Armenian immigration and buy local third-party insurance, as green card cover from Europe does not automatically apply.

Is Armenia good for motorcycle touring?

For riders who want mountain roads, near-empty traffic and a lot of history in a compact area, yes. The trade-off is uneven surfaces and short seasons at altitude, so a week in summer or early autumn gets you far more than a winter attempt.